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Wood Information, Care & Finishing Options
STAINING FRESH NEW CEDAR
If you're ordering from our ACW line let us do the staining, it will be done using our special treatment process and the extra cost is probably less than buying just the stain itself.
For those items that we don't offer a pre-stained product and you want to stain it then there are a variety of options available to you. Once again, we recommend Cetol 1 by Sikkens because it is the best oil based stain on the market. There are other less expensive alternatives out there that take less time to apply, such as Olympic, but then they don't last as long, protect the wood as well, nor look or feel as luxurious after application. Since we recommend Cetol 1, the instructions above are for Applying Cetol 1 (although you can use the same instructions for other stains, you would not normally apply other stains 3 times... other stains normally get applied only once or twice).
STAINING WEATHERED AND AGED CEDAR
If the cedar has become very weathered and gray you will need to sand it down with 80 grit sand paper to reveal the fresh wood underneath. If it is just starting to gray and isn't extremely weathered, you can use 120 or even 150 grit sandpaper. After doing a once over with your chosen sandpaper, you must sand it lightly a second time with 180 grit sandpaper. This will prepare the surface to be beautifully smooth and scratch-free. You don't want scratch marks on the surface of the wood before applying the stain because a stain will not cover them up. The stain will only enhance them and make them more visible. Therefore, using 180 grit is necessary.
Always sand in the direction of the grain. Once it has been sanded down properly, follow the steps above "Applying CETOL 1".
OR:
If sanding isn't for you and you'll see this described on the Sikkens site here, you can use a mixture of 2oz of T.S.P. (found in any hardware store), and a bleach/water mixture in the ratio of 1 quart bleach for 3 quarts water, but you should apply this solution with a garden pump sprayer after first completely wetting the piece by spraying it with plain water.
Leave the solution on for about 15-20 minutes. During this period, scrub the wood with a hard non-ferrous bristle brush to remove the weathered layer. Do not allow the solution to dry on the furniture. Keep it wet.
Then power wash the solution off the wood from a distance of not more than 1 foot from the wood. Do not exceed 500psi when you power wash, or you could damage the wood.
Now you should let the furniture dry for 3 good "dry" days. Once it has dried, follow the steps above "Applying CETOL 1" as if for New Cedar.
FINISHING OPTIONS AND TREATMENTS
Caring for your furniture is easy. There are a variety of finishes that can be used, for instance: stain, paint, varnish, urethane, wood sealer, or wood oil, some we recommend - some we absolutely don't! The alternative for Cedar of course is to do nothing at all and let it age and weather naturally.
NATURAL WEATHERING
This is obviously the easiest program to follow! With Cedar this is certainly a viable option.
Because of the inherent nature of Western Red Cedar to withstand insect attack and the outdoor elements Cedar does not require a finish to keep its structure over the years.
Many folks prefer to allow their cedar furniture to "naturally age" outdoors without a stain or finish. Over time the colorful tones of the wood slowly weather to a handsome silver-grey and the grain of the wood will become slightly raised. Surprisingly, once this happens, the rate of wood aging slows tremendously. The changes undergone in the surface that produce the gray color actually prevent UV light from penetrating to the interior of the wood, thus protecting it in a natural way.
In the future, if you ever decide the gray color isn't for you, you can sand the surface of the wood to reveal fresh, new cedar once again.
Some of our furniture uses zinc fastening hardware and if it's left completely natural this silver-gray color will eventually be highlighted by darker streaks formed from the reaction between the Cedar Resin and the zinc hardware. This is not an issue with stainless steel
If the dark streaks are not for you we suggest using a simple wood sealer as described below. .
Please note that any wood product that has been protected with some form of stain or sealant will last longer (or at least look newer for longer) than one which has not, but thanks to the marvelous resiliency of cedar, your cedar furniture will still last for many, many years even if left unprotected.
Because of the inherent nature of Western Red Cedar to withstand insect attack and the outdoor elements Cedar does not require a finish to keep its structure over the years.
Many folks prefer to allow their cedar furniture to "naturally age" outdoors without a stain or finish. Over time the colorful tones of the wood slowly weather to a handsome silver-grey and the grain of the wood will become slightly raised. Surprisingly, once this happens, the rate of wood aging slows tremendously. The changes undergone in the surface that produce the gray color actually prevent UV light from penetrating to the interior of the wood, thus protecting it in a natural way.
In the future, if you ever decide the gray color isn't for you, you can sand the surface of the wood to reveal fresh, new cedar once again.
Some of our furniture uses zinc fastening hardware and if it's left completely natural this silver-gray color will eventually be highlighted by darker streaks formed from the reaction between the Cedar Resin and the zinc hardware. This is not an issue with stainless steel
If the dark streaks are not for you we suggest using a simple wood sealer as described below. .
Please note that any wood product that has been protected with some form of stain or sealant will last longer (or at least look newer for longer) than one which has not, but thanks to the marvelous resiliency of cedar, your cedar furniture will still last for many, many years even if left unprotected.
WOOD SEALER
If you don't want to stain the cedar but still want to protect it, you can apply a clear sealer or protector. You have a couple of options depending on the look you want over the long term.
If you like the fresh new look of of the wood and want to maintain that new look, you'll need a sealer with very high UV protection in it because it is the UV rays that turn cedar, in particular and pine to a lesser extent, gray over time. If you like the gray color but just want to protect the wood from checking (this is when the grain of the wood raises up), drink spills and other things that could dirty the wood (such as bird droppings), you need a clear sealer without UV protection.
We recommend "Cabot's" for both of these options. You could also use Thompsons Wood Sealer as it will block the pores of the wood. This inhibits the grain from becoming raised yet allows the natural fading of the wood to a gentle silvery-gray color.
Cabot's is our first choice and they make 2 varieties of clear protectors very suitable for use on cedar and pine...
OPTION 1 -- Maintain the fresh new look of the wood long term.
Cabot's Clear Solution is recommended for this. It is easy to apply, easy to clean up, and lasts a long time (length of time depends on usage and exposure to sun). You should plan to refresh this protector every year to two years.
OPTION 2 -- Protect the wood, but allow it to turn gray.
Cabot's Crystal Clear is recommended for this. It is also easy to apply and easy to clean up. You should plan to refresh this protector every year to two years to maintain the maximum protective seal.
Instructions for how to apply it are directly on the can. However, you might also want to take a look at steps 1 through 6 below in the sections"How To Stain Fresh New Cedar" or "How To Stain Weathered and Aged Cedar" , depending on the condition of your furniture.
Cabot's should be available in most Home Depots or Lowe's stores, Thompson's is also widely available.
If you like the fresh new look of of the wood and want to maintain that new look, you'll need a sealer with very high UV protection in it because it is the UV rays that turn cedar, in particular and pine to a lesser extent, gray over time. If you like the gray color but just want to protect the wood from checking (this is when the grain of the wood raises up), drink spills and other things that could dirty the wood (such as bird droppings), you need a clear sealer without UV protection.
We recommend "Cabot's" for both of these options. You could also use Thompsons Wood Sealer as it will block the pores of the wood. This inhibits the grain from becoming raised yet allows the natural fading of the wood to a gentle silvery-gray color.
Cabot's is our first choice and they make 2 varieties of clear protectors very suitable for use on cedar and pine...
OPTION 1 -- Maintain the fresh new look of the wood long term.
Cabot's Clear Solution is recommended for this. It is easy to apply, easy to clean up, and lasts a long time (length of time depends on usage and exposure to sun). You should plan to refresh this protector every year to two years.
OPTION 2 -- Protect the wood, but allow it to turn gray.
Cabot's Crystal Clear is recommended for this. It is also easy to apply and easy to clean up. You should plan to refresh this protector every year to two years to maintain the maximum protective seal.
Instructions for how to apply it are directly on the can. However, you might also want to take a look at steps 1 through 6 below in the sections"How To Stain Fresh New Cedar" or "How To Stain Weathered and Aged Cedar" , depending on the condition of your furniture.
Cabot's should be available in most Home Depots or Lowe's stores, Thompson's is also widely available.
PAINT
In our humble optinion, paints are not really a good idea for numerous reasons...
Want to be Colorful?
If you like the painted look and want colorful furniture, we recommend Cabot's Latex Stain instead. It is an opaque water-based stain that looks like paint after application. You can buy any color in the rainbow because the colors are custom mixed. It even has Teflon protection in it to guard against spills, spots and scratches. You get the benefits of a stain and the look of a paint.
For instructions on how to apply Cabot's Latex Stain, please consult the can. However, you might also want to take a look at steps 1 through 5 in our article "How To Stain Fresh New Cedar" or "How To Stain Weathered and Aged Cedar" , depending on the condition of your furniture.
Cabot's should be available in most Home Depots or Lowe's stores.
If you like the painted look and want colorful furniture, we recommend Cabot's Latex Stain instead. It is an opaque water-based stain that looks like paint after application. You can buy any color in the rainbow because the colors are custom mixed. It even has Teflon protection in it to guard against spills, spots and scratches. You get the benefits of a stain and the look of a paint.
For instructions on how to apply Cabot's Latex Stain, please consult the can. However, you might also want to take a look at steps 1 through 5 in our article "How To Stain Fresh New Cedar" or "How To Stain Weathered and Aged Cedar" , depending on the condition of your furniture.
Cabot's should be available in most Home Depots or Lowe's stores.
| 1. | Paint covers the natural beauty of any wood, and we sell the best cedar and best furniture grade pine that money can buy. |
| 2. | Paint will eventually crack, chip, or peel because it is not as flexible as stain. Remember that wood expands and contracts with variations in the temperature, humidity, moisture content in the wood, etc. |
| 3. | When it comes time to put a fresh coat on, you will have to strip the old coat off before putting on the new one if you want to do a proper job. It is a lot of work. However, a fresh coat of stain can be applied over the old one, which is much easier and less costly. |
| 4. | You cannot apply a fresh layer of paint only on the top surfaces of the furniture. You must redo the entire piece evenly. However, stains can be reapplied only on the top surfaces most exposed to wear and tear if you wish, which saves you time and money again. |
| 5. | If you scratch paint by accident and reveal fresh wood, it is nearly impossible to properly fix it unless you repaint the whole thing (you can't just repaint one part because then that part will be a different color than the other parts that have weathered). Scratches in stain are much easier to fix. |
| 6. | Paints do not allow the wood to breathe like stains. |
WOOD OILS, VARNISHES AND URETHANES
Wood oils are not really recommended for cedar because dust particles and other airborne objects tend to stick to the finish, thereby reducing the beauty of the furniture. They also won't protect the furniture from droppings, spills or sweat marks, so it is almost pointless to apply it.
You can use teak oil if you want, but please keep in mind that you will have to apply it quite often (minimum every 6 months) for it to have any lasting protective and hydrating effect. Teak oil is actually better for medium or hard woods.
Varnishes and urethanes are not recommended because they do not penetrate the wood and should be avoided for exterior application. Since they do not penetrate the wood, they prevent the release of moisture within the wood, which results in cracks and blisters. They also frequently peel due to lack of absorption into the wood. Properly applied it can look good in the short term, but the problem is that it is so often not applied correctly that eventually the furniture looks bad, not to mention that the protective usefulness will then be reduced. We do not recommend using oil finishes on your outdoor furniture as dust particles in the air will stick to the finish.
You can use teak oil if you want, but please keep in mind that you will have to apply it quite often (minimum every 6 months) for it to have any lasting protective and hydrating effect. Teak oil is actually better for medium or hard woods.
Varnishes and urethanes are not recommended because they do not penetrate the wood and should be avoided for exterior application. Since they do not penetrate the wood, they prevent the release of moisture within the wood, which results in cracks and blisters. They also frequently peel due to lack of absorption into the wood. Properly applied it can look good in the short term, but the problem is that it is so often not applied correctly that eventually the furniture looks bad, not to mention that the protective usefulness will then be reduced. We do not recommend using oil finishes on your outdoor furniture as dust particles in the air will stick to the finish.
UNDERGROUND CONTACT & GROUND APPLICATION
All wood should be preservative treated if intended for use in applications where it is dug into the ground. i.e. Arbor Posts.
STAINING
If you would like to preserve the colorful tones of the freshly sanded cedar any number of finishes can be used on your furniture. The types we have tried and recommend are good quality penetrating sealers and transparent or solid exterior stains. There is a wide variety of colors to choose from which makes it easy to match your existing decor. We recommend 2 coats of a semi transparent stain with a UV inhibitor such as 'Sikkens Cetol 1' (natural) to preserve the handsome look of your furniture. Every 2nd year you might re-apply a coat of stain to freshen the finish. Little or no sanding, preparation or primer is needed when you use a stain.
Staining any wood is necessary if you want to maintain the new look of it, or maintain a constant appearance. We highly recommend staining because it greatly prolongs the service life, especially if you live in a humid climate or near coastal areas. Cedar left to age naturally can still last for decades, but cedar properly protected with a good stain can last a lifetime (or more).
There are a variety of stains on the market, ranging from cheap to expensive. Some are easy to apply but require frequent application, and some are more difficult to apply but require application less frequently.
We use Cetol 1 by Sikkens on our ACW line of Adirondack Outdoor Furniture (www.LoungeOutdoors.com) cedar furniture when you order a stained product from us because, when properly used, it is simply the best stain on the market. It is also one of the most expensive stains on the market. It is even slightly more expensive than Olympic Maximum (for example), but then you get what you pay for ( click here to check out details on Cetol 1).
Cetol 1 takes 3 days to apply the full 3 coats that are recommended and another 2 to completely harden on fresh new wood, but it is so beautiful when it is done that it is worth it. The advantage of using Cetol 1 even though it takes quite long to apply is that once done, it lasts for many years.
If you are looking for something that is faster to apply and less expensive, we recommend Cabot's Latex Stain (they also have an oil based stain, but we recommend Cetol 1 if you want oil based).
Want to be colorful? You can order Cabot's Latex Stain in any color you like and it is water based, so it is easy to clean up and easy to fix mistakes. It even has Teflon in it to protect it from whatever may be dropped on it (like your favorite food or drink at the family barbeque!). Please just note that Cabot's Latex Stain is an opaque stain whereas Cetol 1 is a translucent stain which means the natural grain of the wood will show through.
It is generally recommended that you refresh the stain to maintain the finish and new look of the furniture every 1.5 to 2 years, although when Cetol 1 is used you can usually wait for twice that. If you don't live in an extremely sunny area and you bring the furniture indoors during the winter you can wait a lot longer than that. Exactly how long you should wait before refreshing your stain is a judgment call on your part, which you will be able to make as the years go by.
APPLYING CETOL 1.
So how should you apply Cetol 1? Take a look below.
Staining any wood is necessary if you want to maintain the new look of it, or maintain a constant appearance. We highly recommend staining because it greatly prolongs the service life, especially if you live in a humid climate or near coastal areas. Cedar left to age naturally can still last for decades, but cedar properly protected with a good stain can last a lifetime (or more).
There are a variety of stains on the market, ranging from cheap to expensive. Some are easy to apply but require frequent application, and some are more difficult to apply but require application less frequently.
We use Cetol 1 by Sikkens on our ACW line of Adirondack Outdoor Furniture (www.LoungeOutdoors.com) cedar furniture when you order a stained product from us because, when properly used, it is simply the best stain on the market. It is also one of the most expensive stains on the market. It is even slightly more expensive than Olympic Maximum (for example), but then you get what you pay for ( click here to check out details on Cetol 1).
Cetol 1 takes 3 days to apply the full 3 coats that are recommended and another 2 to completely harden on fresh new wood, but it is so beautiful when it is done that it is worth it. The advantage of using Cetol 1 even though it takes quite long to apply is that once done, it lasts for many years.
If you are looking for something that is faster to apply and less expensive, we recommend Cabot's Latex Stain (they also have an oil based stain, but we recommend Cetol 1 if you want oil based).
Want to be colorful? You can order Cabot's Latex Stain in any color you like and it is water based, so it is easy to clean up and easy to fix mistakes. It even has Teflon in it to protect it from whatever may be dropped on it (like your favorite food or drink at the family barbeque!). Please just note that Cabot's Latex Stain is an opaque stain whereas Cetol 1 is a translucent stain which means the natural grain of the wood will show through.
It is generally recommended that you refresh the stain to maintain the finish and new look of the furniture every 1.5 to 2 years, although when Cetol 1 is used you can usually wait for twice that. If you don't live in an extremely sunny area and you bring the furniture indoors during the winter you can wait a lot longer than that. Exactly how long you should wait before refreshing your stain is a judgment call on your part, which you will be able to make as the years go by.
APPLYING CETOL 1.
So how should you apply Cetol 1? Take a look below.
| 1. | Purchase your color of choice, if the item was previously stained then using stain that was previously applied is best (you'll need to sand more if it was originally stained another color) and a brush that won't lose its bristles with every stroke. Sikkens recommends using a natural hair brush, but we have achieved just as good results using a cheap brush from the dollar store. The choice is yours. Just try pulling the bristles to check that they don't come out. For our ACW line the "Honey Gold" color we sell is actually called "Natural" in Cetol 1 by Sikkens, which is color 078. The Mahogany is color 045. |
| 2. | Make sure the day you choose to apply the stain is not below 10oC (50oF) and not above 35oC (95oF), and is not rainy (unless you are applying under a roof, such as in a WELL VENTILATED garage). |
| 3. | Clean the furniture using soapy water and a sponge only if it is very dirty. Otherwise, just wipe clean with water and a clean rag. Try to get into all the nooks and crannies where you will be applying the stain. Some people choose to only re-stain the main surfaces since it is the surface that is mostly affected by the UV rays, but we recommend doing a complete job because the stain does more than just protect against the sun. Be sure to dry the furniture completely by wiping the excess water off and letting it sit for a day. Staining it while it is still wet is a big no-no. It will ruin the finish. |
| 4. | If the furniture has previously been stained or left to age naturally then you need to sand the surfaces you intend to stain very lightly with a 320 grit sandpaper. Be sure to buy the sandpaper specifically made for staining (it is usually a blue or green color). Sand in the direction of the grain. Do not sand across the grain. The idea is to smooth the surface, while scratching it slightly so the next layer of stain has something to grab onto. Wipe the dust off with a dry rag when finished. Do not oversand! A few strokes on each piece is sufficient. |
| 5. | Mix the stain well with a clean stick. If you really want to be fancy, you can strain the stain before using it in order to get out the small particles. Single use paper strains can be purchased at finer paint stores. They are not expensive. Strain it into a CLEAN container. A dry water bottle that has been cut in half is fine. |
| 6. | Brush the stain on in the direction of the grain. Don't be stingy with the stain, but don't put so much on that it is dripping everywhere either. Be sure to saturate all end grains (the ends of the pieces), because they soak up a little more stain than the surfaces. Also, always work in small, manageable sections so that you always leave a wet edge to begin your next stroke. This will help you avoid lap marks (caused when a section dries before you stain the rest of the piece, thereby causing a darker part to form where the two bits of stain overlap). Stain should not be applied in the direct sun or rain, and it should not be excessively humid outside. |
| 7. | If the Cedar is still new and unweathered and not previously stained then wait 24 hours for the first coat you aplied in step 6 to dry. On the second day, sand all surfaces very lightly with a 320 grit sandpaper. Be sure to buy the sandpaper specifically made for staining (it is usually a blue or green color). Sand in the direction of the grain. Do not sand across the grain. The idea is to smooth the surface, while scratching it slightly so the next layer of stain has something to grab onto. Wipe the dust off with a dry rag when finished. Do not over-sand! A few strokes in the direction of the grain on each piece is sufficient. Now repeat steps 5 and 6 again. Repeat Step 7 again. That means you will be sanding it one more time and applying a 3rd coat of the Cetol 1. |
| 8. | That's it! Allow it dry out of direct sunlight or rain. It will be dry to the touch after 3-4 hours, but won't be completely set in and ready to use for about 24 hours. Drying time might be slightly extended if it is very humid (higher than 65%) or very wet outside. |
Always wear protective eye-wear and latex gloves when staining. An accidental splash of stain in your eyes will ruin your day for sure. Remember you are handling a stain, so wear old clothes so you won't mind if you get a little stain on them (because you will, no matter how careful your are). Always keep some mineral sprits nearby in case you spill any stain and you don't want it to leave a mark. Cetol 1 is quite difficult to get out after it has dried (still possible, but more difficult), but if you use a little mineral spirits on a wet spot of Cetol 1, it will clean right up quite easily.
When you're finished, clean your brush with mineral spirits if you intend to use it again.
When you're finished, clean your brush with mineral spirits if you intend to use it again.
The myth of teak oil. It is a common belief that teak oil will prolong the life of your teak furniture and keep that natural color the furniture had when it was new. However, not so!
Like Cedar it will also turn a natural gray even though treated with several coats of teak oil.
To restore your teak furniture to its original color, you can simply sand it lightly with a fine grain sandpaper and then reapply teak oil or just leave it as it is. In time, it will of course turn gray again and because this is a quality piece of teak outdoor furniture, weather and harsh conditions have had little effect on the structural integrity of the piece so that underneath the oxidation is still a beautiful piece of furniture.
RESTORATION CAN BE DONE AS FOLLOWS:
Like Cedar it will also turn a natural gray even though treated with several coats of teak oil.
To restore your teak furniture to its original color, you can simply sand it lightly with a fine grain sandpaper and then reapply teak oil or just leave it as it is. In time, it will of course turn gray again and because this is a quality piece of teak outdoor furniture, weather and harsh conditions have had little effect on the structural integrity of the piece so that underneath the oxidation is still a beautiful piece of furniture.
RESTORATION CAN BE DONE AS FOLLOWS:
Caring for your Teak Furniture
Cedar
| 1. | Wash the wood with a mild soap and warm water. This will remove surface dirt and some of the oxidation on the surface of the wood. There are many different products available on the market for cleaning teak wood furniture and teak wood, however we do not make any specific recommendations for any one product. |
| 2. | After cleaning the wood, let it dry overnight. The next day sand the wood with a fine grain sandpaper, 320 grit is fine for this purpose. The sanding will reveal the true color of the wood underneath the layers of oxidation and dirt. Sand lightly and be sure that you always follow the direction of the grain while sanding. Never sand against the grain! |
| 3. | Once the wood is sanded, use a clean, dry cotton cloth to wipe any residual sanding dust from the wood. Make sure the wood is clean and dry before you apply any finish to it. |
| 4. | The final step is to apply the teak oil. We recommend you use a brush to apply it in a light, yet even application at least three times. Allow at least one hour between coats to allow the teak oil to saturate the wood. You can decide on how many coats to apply by the color of the wood after each coat. |
| n | Natural Weathering |
| n | Wood Sealer |
| n | Paint |
| n | Wood Oils, Varnishes & Urethanes |
| n | Underground Contact |
| n | Staining |